All the Places I've Ben

Bon Voyage

2010-08-18T17:02:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow I begin the journey to Indonesia. My itinerary is as follows:

Flight to Chicago (1hr 22min)
Layover in Chicago (24hr 28min) - this is due to visa problems.
Flight to Hong Kong (15hr 17min)
Layover in Hong Kong (3hr 00min)
Flight to Singapore (3hr 30min)
Layover in Singapore (11hr 25min) - starting at about midnight local time.
Flight to Jakarta (1hr 35min)

The total: 60 hours, 37 minutes. Better download some more Bieber.

Four Days to Go.... Maybe.

2010-08-16T19:40:00.000-07:00

Welcome back to my travel blog! I’ve been dormant for some time now, but with a new blog format and an upcoming trip, it’s time to revive my bungling attempts to record and share my adventures, whether they be awesome, agonizing or simply absurd. Be sure to check out the new Gallery and Map tabs at the top of the blog; they aren't quite finished yet but are still pretty cool.

In a few days I will leave for Indonesia (that is, if my visa situation is every resolved), where I will be teaching English for a year as a Fulbright ETA (English Teaching Assistant). I’ve spent the last few weeks preparing for the trip while getting my fill of Midwest culture – attending Twins games in their new outdoor stadium, counseling and sailing at a YMCA summer camp, roadtripping to Iowa and eating a Jiffy burger, just to name a few recent activities.

I’ve made a point of collecting together various things that will help me teach English and share American culture in the coming year - yearbooks, American periodicals, maps of the USA and so on. In the spirit of exporting our culture, my friends have also been kind enough to provide a grading pen and a usefully-sized 3.0 oz mug:

I've also stocked my music library with the USA’s finest pop music… purely for cultural exchange reasons, of course.

Once in Indonesia, I’ll have three weeks of training in Jakarta and nearby Bandung with the 43 other ETAs. After orientation, we depart for the four corners of Indonesia – from Java to Papua, and everywhere in-between. I’ll be headed to the island of Lombok with one other (ETAs are placed in pairs in cities that are “problems” or new to the program; ours is the latter). So what’s Lombok like? Take a look:

My first post from Indonesia will be coming soon... only a ton of packing, a trip to Chicago to obtain my visa and 30+ hours of flying between now and then...

Casas Locations

2009-07-12T06:20:00.000-07:00

Here's a cool map showing where all the students, staff and faculty on the program are living:

View Viterbi Overseas - Apartments in a larger map

As you can see, we are scattered across the city without much clustering. This makes getting together a bit more difficult, but also gives us each a unique experience and our own niche of Madrid to explore. For those of you that are curious, my house is denoted by the most northeastern marker.

The Dirty South Part 2: Granada and Córdoba

2009-07-06T05:34:00.000-07:00

I’m writing this post at 1am in my adorable pink bedroom. It’s 1am in the morning, but thanks to my irregular sleep patterns and the 80-degree air I’m still wide awake. Daytime temperatures in Madrid are starting to reach 90 and 95 degrees, and still every guy on the street wears pants... I just don’t get it. Although to be fair, it wouldn’t be a normal day at USC if I didn’t see at least one girl wearing shorts and Ugg boots, so I guess Spain isn’t alone in putting fashion over function.

Continuing on from the previous post, where I ended with the nail-biting cliffhanger of leaving Sevilla... three hours of bus riding and one pit stop in Podunk, Spain later, our jam-packed tour bus rolled into Granada, another Moor-influenced and very hot city of the South.

After having a chance to wander the streets and devour an incredibly delicious and incredibly cheap döner kebab, we reorganized for a group tour of Granada’s ancient city center. Notable stops included the Granada Cathedral (featuring the effigies of King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella) and the Albayzín (a district of distinctly Arabic streets and buildings).

With only a few hours to spare before a scheduled event that evening, several of us wandered the labyrinthine Albayzín for a bit before heading to a supermercado to purchase dinner supplies. Armed with baguettes and brie, we spent an hour in a local park feasting on my favorite Parisian snack while watching local counter-culture folks prep for a nude bicycle parade. My apologies for not taking any pictures.

Around 9pm (things get started awfully late here), our group reconvened at our unfortunately plainly scented hotel for our cultural event of the trip: a traditional gypsy dance performance. Getting to the venue was an adventure itself – our bus ride was akin to the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland (though not quite on par with buses in so uthern Tai wan), and we had a chance to roam the ancient Moorish quarter of Sacromonte amid gypsy accordion and guitar players. I felt like I was no longer in Spain, but rather some ancient Arabic city. Dim lamps illuminated stone passageways and winding cobblestone streets, while sandstone buildings and towers loomed in the darkness. Everything had an air of history and mystery, of ancient secrets buried deep within the stones.

Our wanderings eventually brought us to our show, which took place in a cave-like room adorned with cheap plaster and cheaper decorations. One by one, a family of gypsy dancers stomped and swayed their way up and down the room while others played guitar, sang and clapped along. For the finale, the lights were dimmed and the family grandmother performed solo, dancing like a woman half her age.

Following the official show, several students were asked to join the dancers, including the always-intrepid Craig:

The following day began with a bus ride up to the Alham b ra, a 14th century palace and fortress situated on Granada’s highest point and the most visited monument in Spain. We wandered from the outer wall up to the main palace, passing through courtyards and terraces spotted with exotic flowers and fountains. Like many of the other stops on our exploration of southern Spain, the buildings were distinctly Arabic but certainly Christian influenced. This is due to Granada’s special role in Spanish history – it was the last town to be reclaimed during the Reconquista (the reconquest of the Iberian peninsula from the Muslims) under the leadership of King Ferdinand II and Queen Isabella. In fact, since this is where the King and Queen were situated at the conclusion of the war, it was also where Christopher Columbus rushed to meet them for financial support of his voyage to the New World.

Once finished with the palace, we moved onto the Gene ra life, a palace and garden nearby. Just like the Alhambra and the Albayzín, the gardens felt distinctly Arabic – walking through, I felt like I was partaking in a scene from One Thousand and One Arabian Nights. Exotic plants lined the winding paths, while fountains gurgled and pools glistened. It wasn’t hard to see why these gardens, in conjunction with the Alhambra and Albayzín, were designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO – one more down, woohoo!

That afternoon, we took yet another bus to Córdoba, a nearby town known for its historic center and former mosque, the Mezquita (mosque) of Córdoba. The inside of this gargantuan structure (it was the second largest mosque in the world at one point) was filled with simple pillars supporting innumerable red and white striped archways. Everything was plain and without any iconography – no paintings, no statues, no stained glass windows, nothing but silence and shadows. That is, everything except the Gothic cathedral nave plopped down in the middle by the Spanish during the Reconquista. The cathedral could not have felt more forced or inconsistent in such a place, with its many windows, gold plated statues and heavily symbolic icons. It seemed as if the Christians, having reconquered the city, felt the need to make a statement. The result was a bit discordant, to say the least.

After several more hours of exploring the city, evading the heat (it was well over 100 degrees) and downing some delicious cerveza con limón (beer with lemonade), we loaded up for a final bus ride to the train station and our Ave train home. Four days, three UNESCO sites and an arrival in Madrid at 2am with class/work the next day at 8am… not a bad weekend.

The Dirty South Part 1: Sevilla

2009-06-18T07:14:00.000-07:00

This past weekend, our 50+ person group of students, faculty, staff and one free-loading TA escaped Madrid for the heat and history of Andalucía, one of Spain’s 17 autonomous communities (the country’s equivalent to states). By taking advantage of Corpus Christi and the national holiday it offered on Thursday, we had ourselves a four-day weekend to explore the ancient cities of southern Spain.

First up was Sevilla, the third largest city in Spain. Stepping off the Ave high-speed train and into the 95-degree air initially felt wonderful, but it wasn’t long until I was drenched in sweat and panting like a dog. But after a summer with weather like this, Sevilla was certainly manageable.

Once we were situated in our hotel, a group of us wandered the insanely narrow streets of the old town until happening across a restaurant with a decently priced menú del día (menu of the day – two courses with a drink and dessert). For eight euros, I was treated to a pile of paella, seared beef with vegetables, ice cream and a cool glass of tinto de verano (red wine mixed with a Sprite-like soda). Complemented by an endless stream of street singers and accordion players, it was my most satisfying meal yet in Spain.

Next was a tour of the city’s ancient palace and fortress, the Real Alcázar. With its first stone laid in 1181, it is the oldest active palace in all of Europe and also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Like much of the buildings in southern Spain, it is a unique architectural combination of Christian and Arab themes – for example, it is one of only a few places in the world that images of people can be found adorning the walls of the distinctly Arabic structure. Fun fact – several of the courtyards were used in filming the King of Jerusalem’s court in the movie Kingdom of Heaven. Cool!

After finishing our tour of the palace, several friends and I wandered through the royal gardens behind the palace. Lots of awesome fountains, exotic plants, and plenty of sweat thanks to the sweltering heat.

That night, our group had our taste of truly touristy nightlife. Not much to say regarding the evening, but look what I found:

Woohoo!

The next day we conquered the Cathedral of Sevilla, the largest Gothic cathedral and third largest church in the world. Plus, it was another World Heritage Site, so obviously I was very excited!

To say that the inside was huge would be an understatement. It was a ludicrously gargantuan space that I couldn’t possibly hope to capture with my cheap point-and-shoot camera. The church was also home to the tomb of Christopher Columbus, who’s exploits led to the prosperity of Sevilla (all boats coming to and from America were required to pass through the town, leading to an astounding level of wealth and exotic imports for Sevilla’s citizens).

After wandering the central nave for a bit, we climbed the Cathedral’s bell tower (named La Giralda). Interestingly, the inside of the tower consisted of a series of ramps rather than stairs, another sign of its mixed heritage – muezzins (the Arabic leaders of daily prayer who shout from the top of the city’s tallest structure) used to ride to the top on horseback. As expected, the top of the tower presented an awesome view of the city.

We spent the rest of the day wandering the city and avoiding the heat, which was well in excess of 100 degrees. After a dinner of tapas and montaditos (miniature sandwiches) and quick stop by the local disco, it was off to bed.

Next up: Granada! Hopefully we'll be staying at a hotel like this one:

Toledo: In Spain, It's More Than Just Cows!

2009-06-08T13:18:00.000-07:00

This past Saturday, our USC program took our first group excursion to Toledo. Situated 45 miles south of Madrid, the 1300 year-old town used to be the capital of Spain and is still the country's religious center. It is famous for being a place of peaceful coexistence between Catholics, Muslims and Jews (leading to some truly unique architecture), as well as containing many works of its most famous resident - the Spanish master El Greco.

Our first stop in Toledo was a beautiful panoramic view of the old city quarter, which looked something like this: (side note: I just realized I have panorama creating software! Expect many more photos with widths that far exceed their heights, and don't forget to click on the photo below to view a larger version.)

The tall building on the right is the Alcázar of Toledo, a typical Spanish castle who's architecture hints at the Muslim history of the town. Directly to the left of the castle and piercing into the sky is the steeple of the High Gothic Cathedral of Toledo (which we toured later), and along the bottom of the photograph is a modest river that will eventually become the mighty Tagus, the longest river on the Iberian Peninsula.

After snapping photographs of the scenery and every possible permutation of our group members, we loaded back on to the bus, went around to the front of the city, and rode a set of escalators up to the old town (which is situated on a hill, surrounded on three sides by the Tagus). Here we began our walking tour of the city, strolling beneath the many flowers and tapestries hanging above the streets in preparation for the Christian holiday of Corpus Christi (typically a procession through town featuring a consecrated Eucharist, followed by Mass).

Once we had wandered the streets for a bit, our tour guide led us into the Cathedral of Toledo. I've been in great cathedrals before, but never before have I felt so insignificant - standing among the massive columns of marble sprouting forth from floor and reaching to the vaulted ceiling above, breathing in the cold, damp air, weaving in and out of the shadows cast by persevering light that managed to penetrate the many stained-glass windows, being absolutely swallowed the silence that was in such stark contrast to the Spanish life raging outside - it was like taking a silent stroll at dusk through an ancient Redwood forest made of stone. Truly breathtaking.

Our guide led us about the main chapel, side chapels, and the numerous pieces of incredible artwork throughout the Cathedral. Unfortunately, pictures were not allowed, so I guess my readers will simply have to make the trip themselves! (or just consult the Wikipedia article.) One notable piece was El Greco's El Expolio (or The Disrobing of Christ). Apparently it caused a huge dispute because it was the first image to depict Jesus as a man in the middle of the scene rather than an omnipotent being hovering above the Earth.

Real scandalous, right? Just imagine how the 16th century clergymen would have reacted to Piss Christ.

After snacking on some paella tapas, we resumed with tours of the town's synagogues and art, including El Greco's masterpiece The Burial of the Count of Orgaz. I was very impressed by the see-through nature of the priest's garments, something I could never create armed only with a paintbrush.

Our formal tour then ended, allowing us to freely tramp about Toledo. Craig (remember him from Taiwan?) and I did a whirlwind tour of everything of interest on our map, including scaling church towers, locating Toledo's UNESCO World Heritage Marker, and crossing a 14th century bridge.

And that's it for Toledo! Four days back in Madrid, and then off to Andalucía and southern Spain. ¡Ciao!

Embracing the Spanish Timetable

2009-06-07T08:13:00.000-07:00

Since meeting our crazy landlord, life has been a whirlwind of adventures: group orientation, a walking tour of the city, our first day of classes (the only one I really need to attend, which is nice), persuading customs officials to allow a package containing my camera into the country without paying 70 euros (~$100 USD) in taxes, taking remedial Spanish classes, and thoroughly enjoying the free tapas that usually accompany a round of drinks.

The students and myself have been eagerly exploring the city by both day and night, and have done a decent job adjusting to the Spanish way of life - getting to class/work by 9, having a huge almuerzo (lunch) from 2-4, dinner between 8 and 11 and going out after that. Unfortunately, we have been forced to retire relatively early due to our morning engagements, but that all changed when Thursday night rolled around. With no class until 4pm the next day, our schedules were primed for an evening of mayhem.

After class and a preemptive nap, over thirty students and I met at 11pm for dinner and drinks in Puerta del Sol, the touristic and historic center of the city. In accordance with the typical schedule of madrileños, we left the restaurant for the discotheque around 1:30am, but were some of the first people inside despite arriving at 2am. Most fellow club-goers didn't show until 3am, a time of morning that us Americans would usually spend either sleeping or riding home in a taxi.

Our disco for the night was Kapital, a seven-story megaclub with several dance floors, multiple lounges, a hookah bar, a movie theater, and a karaoke bar. Being that the club was nearly vacant when we arrived, our group set up camp in front of the karaoke stage. As for our attempts at singing, lets just say this: thank God nobody had a camcorder.

After a particularly epic performance of My Heart Will Go On, we moved on to the dance floor featuring American hip hop and a plethora of creepsters. For the next hour and change, the dudes in our group corralled the dudettes in an effort to barricade them from the euro-weirdos. The whole spectacle was akin to a Discovery Channel segment on the African Savannas - wild jackals circling a herd of Cape Buffalo while the elder buffaloes encircle their young (that's a terrible analogy, but you get the idea). Next up was the floor with techno beats, fog machines and strobe lights (sounds a little like two-door hall, no?) With two summers of clubbing abroad under my belt, I used the opportunity to pridefully showcase some absolutely awful dance moves.

At 5am, we finally decided that it was time to leave the club... but certainly not to go home. A couple of us walked from the discotheque back towards Puerta del Sol. After a couple of wrong turns and several requests for directions, we finally found ourselves at Chocolatería San Ginés. Open since 1894 (and recently open 24/7), this cafe specializes in thick mugs of chocolate and Spanish churros - not the sugar-speckled ones found at Disneyland, but authentically plain, light and crisp fried dough. Not only was the cafe open at 6am, but it was packed! We had to wait for awhile before having a table where we could dip our churros into the chocolate, which yielded a delicious treat after a long night.

Finally, after a full night of karaoke, dancing and churros, we made it home at 8am, just in time to catch the sun rising on the walk from the metro to our house. I immediately collapsed into bed, not waking until 3pm (just in time to make my 4pm Spanish class). With a 9am even the next day, it's safe to say that my sleep schedule will never fully adjust. I have no idea how the madrileños manage to go out week after week, but I've got six more weeks to find out!

Crazy Landladies: An International Phenomenon

2009-06-02T13:38:00.000-07:00

We all have a story about a former ludicrous landlord - personally, I have yet to meet a sane one. My landlord two years ago wore overalls and mismatched colored contact lenses everyday, while this past year I paid rent to a woman that promised our unit would be ready in August but didn't allow us to move in until October.

Spain, it seems, has at least one lunatic landlady as well. My housemates and I were treated to a whirlwind tour of our house by a five-foot maniac who (1) demonstrated how to ventilate the house by opening windows on both sides and lighting a cigarette in the middle, (2) encouraged us to have parties at the house even after our program strictly told us not to, (3) constantly insulted her daughter's English, (4) encouraged us (us being seven college-aged guys) to call her daughter if we ever wanted to go dancing, (5) told us that we could order fast food from "el chinos" (literally "Chinamen") who go "vroom-vroom" on their mopeds, (6) informed us that if we ran out of laundry detergent, we could just ask another Chinaman for more, (7) warned us that only two people could fit on one of the single beds, and (8) invited all of us out for drinks next week. Upon hearing our recount of her behavior, our program coordinator conceded that she was "three-quarters crazy, not the usual 50% of Spaniards." Good to know.

Interestingly enough, we learned the next day in orientation that our landlord's racial comments are the norm in Spain. The national mentality is that we do not posses enough time on this Earth to worry about political correctness and talk around an issue - things should just be said rather than wasting time with convoluted or overly polite language. Referring to fast food deliverymen as "chinos" wasn't meant as an insult, but rather an easy way to express that most are indeed Asian. Instructing us to buy detergent from Chinese people was simply a nod to the fact that many convenience stores are owned by Asians as well. This total disregard for political correctness extends beyond race to gender, sexual orientation, religion, political beliefs, you name it - nothing is off-limits, including the Spanish themselves. However, there is a clear distinction between jokes and jibes, with the great majority of off-color comments being the prior. It seems that the primary concern of most madrileños (residents of Madrid) is simply to enjoy, finding amusement rather than irritation in life's peculiarities - an attitude that will surely resonate well with our group's California mindset.

Bienvenido a España

2009-06-01T04:43:00.000-07:00

¡Hola!

I've just arrived in Madrid, Spain, where I will be spending the next seven weeks of summer. I'm here as a TA/RA for the USC Viterbi Summer Abroad Program - the same program I participated in two summers ago in Paris. My responsibilities include helping students with their thermodynamics and engineering economics homework, grading quizzes, and making sure all the students survive the summer... assuming I do as well, which is looking questionable.

My six roommates and I are currently moving into our ornately decorated three-story house in the northern part of the city. Our accommodations are palatial in comparison to the studio apartment I had in Paris - I have my own pink-themed bedroom, high-speed Internet, a full kitchen, a furnished patio, and even a washing machine. Yes, this is certainly going to be a good summer.

I'll do my best to keep this blog updated throughout the summer, chronicling the inevitable adventures and escapades. Stay tuned!

Ben in Bangkok

2008-08-03T23:46:00.000-07:00

Day 1 in Thailand (Tuesday, July 29th)

Craig, Becky and I arrived in Bangkok at 12:05 am after a three hour flight from Hong Kong via Emirate Airlines. I would highly recommend flying with them if you ever have the chance - we were given menus at the start of our flight, from which we ordered our meals, and they even provided metal silverware. Definitely different from flying Northwest.

All three of us were a mixture of exhaustion and excitement - our three days in Hong Kong and Macao had been exhilarating as well as taxing, but now we were in Thailand! This was the land of milk and honey, the place where one can ride elephants, swim beneath waterfalls and have a full meal for three dollars, all in the same day. Yes, I was excited indeed.

Our first taxi ride from the airport revealed Thailand's other well-known attribute - that people are always trying to scam you. Always. Our taxi driver refused to turn on the meter, and told us a price that was nearly double what our hostel had told us the ride should cost. We refused, tried to barter, even to the point where the taxi driver pulled over and told us to exit the vehicle. Eventually, we reached an agreeable price, but not without considerable arguing and angst. And yet, this was merely a preview of what it's like to be a foreigner in Thailand.

We eventually reached the hostel, found our room and collapsed into bed around 2:30am, only to wake up 7 hours later. Craig and Becky only had one day in Bangkok before departing for Phuket, so we had no time to waste in seeing the city.

After a shower without hot water and a breakfast of bread with jam, we set off for the Grand Palace. It took a solid hour for our taxi driver to get there, not an uncommon occurence for daytime travel in Bangkok. I never thought I would find traffic worse than LA, but here it was - absolute gridlock.

Since the Grand Palace and the adjoined temples are incredibly important places in Thai society, only visitors with pants or long skirts were allowed inside. Both Becky and I were wearing unnacceptable shorts, so we were forced to rent more appropriate clothing from a shop across the street. I picked out a real winner - purple pajama pants dotted with elephants. Lovely.

The palace itself was gorgeous - perfect green lawns, magnificent golden towers, ornate figures and animals, a scale model of Ankur Wat, and the famous Jade Buddha. We ran through the sites, meditated for just a moment in front of the Jade Buddha, and retreated back outside of the compound for a quick lunch.

After filling our bellies for three dollars apeice, we set off down the road to a recommended Thai message salon. I don't strech often, and that day I felt the consequences - for a full hour, I was bent, twisted and beaten to the point of tears. To say it was uncomfortable would be an understatement - it downright hurt. I guess all those years of hunching over a computer finally caught up with me... and yet that's exactly what I'm doing as I compose this blog. How ironic.

The rest of the day was spent traveling back to the hostel, bidding adieu to Craig and Becky (who were catching a flight to the south of Thailand), and traversing the streets of Bangkok to the hostel where I would be staying the rest of my time in the city.

Day 2 in Thailand (Wednesday, July 30th)

I spent most of Wednesday just walking through the city. It was much more enjoyable than taking cabs everywhere (the drivers constantly haggle you), and also really gave me a good feeling of the city's layout and vibe. I finally mastered how to quickly dismiss the constant stream of vendors that harass white people - zero eye contact, a smile and a wave of the hand seems to do the trick.

Let's see... first I walked down to the really touristy street in town, with lots of t-shirts and bars and other spring-break-esque things. I didn't buy any of that, but I did get an ice cream cone from McDonald's for 7 Baht (about 25 cents US). What a steal!

Next I walked by a couple landmarks on my map, which were really boring. One of them was near a temple though, which I decided to explore. After paying the entrance fee of 20 Baht (67 cents), I was allowed to wander around. It was amazing how quiet and serene the inside of the temple was compared to the hustle and bustle of the city just outside. I found it to be a great reprieve.

I began walking towards the next landmark, but it started to downpour on my way there. Instead of braving the rain, I took refuge in the first store I passed - a hair salon. I didn't want to walk in the rain, and I need a cut anyway, so I went ahead and got a trim. It took over an hour, and included at least 20 minutes of washing and massaging my head. They cut off a good amount, so now I look like I'm 14 and all my precious golden curls are gone, but it's so much more comfortable. Although now when I try to flip my hair, nothing happens, so I just look like a crazy guy with an uncontrollable twitch.

Nothing much more to report for my adventures during the day, I mostly just wandered and grabbed food from street vendors as I went. Plenty of walking, and plenty of opportunities to experience the heart of the city (rather than just the typical tourist perspective).

That night, a British guy from the hostel named Phil took me around the city. We took a water taxi down the river at sunset, which provided some spectacular views of the temples on the riverbank, which seemed to glow in the setting sun. Really cool.

We next went to a night market, which is a little different from those in Taiwan. Very different. There were the typical clothes/hats/toys/CD vendors, but surrounding them were clubs, bars and discos. Lots of go-go bars too, with scantily clad women standing in the doorway and beckoning us to enter, and owners showing us very visual diagrams of what their shows entailed. More thoughts on that later.

After grabbing some food and perusing the stalls, we went to another part of town where the main bars and clubs are. Phil and I spent sometime playing pool and drinking beers in a pool hall, which I'm glad we did because it meant that we weren't constantly being hassled by"working" women. Plus, I also won, 5 games to 3. Take that, Britain.

Our final stop was a bar nearby, which was in the center of collection of bars, clubs and strip joints. We played dice while girls did their best to convince us we should take them home. I was told that I'm handsome, that I have a nice nose, that I have nice eyelashes, that I have nice arm hair, and so on.

Actually though, it made me feel really sick to my stomach to see it all. I'm glad Phil gave me a quick tour of that scene, but it made so uncomfortable and sad about the whole situation. These women seemed to have zero self-respect. Even now while I'm writing this, I'm getting a queasy feeling inside just thinking about it. The people who indulge in that lifestyle were also unnerving - it was all awful, arrogant foreigners. I'm not sure if it's the 13 years of Catholic education, the pep talk I received from a doctor at the USC health center, or just plain common sense, but I just can't imagine how anyone would choose to indulge in that lifestyle. I can't ever see myself going back there. Interestingly enough, the Lonely Planet says that only 5% of all prostitution involves foreigners, while all the rest is between Thais. Maybe people here just aren't afraid of STDs, or maybe they all have them already... who knows.

Phil and I made it back to the hostel by 1:30, and promptly fell asleep.

Day 3 in Thailand (Thursday, July 31st)

I spent all of yesterday relaxing and planning things here in the hostel. As of now, here's what my itinerary looks like:

8/2 - Travel from Bangkok to Sukhothai (ancient ruins) by bus.
8/3 - Sukhothai
8/4 - Sukhothai
8/5 - Sukhothai/surrounding area
8/6 - Travel from Sukhothai to Khao Ya (a national park)
8/7 - Khao Ya - jungle tour
8/8 - Khao Ya - bat cave tour
8/9 - Khao Ya
8/10 - Travel from Khao Ya to Krabi (southern beaches)
8/11 - Arrive in Krabi, take longtail to Rai Leigh
8/12 - Rai Leigh
8/13 - Rai Leigh
8/14 - Travel from Rai Leigh to Ko Pha Ngan

8/15 - Ko Pha Ngan
8/16 - Ko Pha Ngan - Full Moon Party
8/17 - Travel back to Bangkok
8/18 - Bangkok
8/19 - Flight to Los Angeles

So, yeah... we'll see how well I can stick to that, but it has everything I want: ruins, jungles, and beaches.

On an aside, I don't have any of the bus tickets yet, including the one for tomorrow. Apparently it's not necessary though, I can just walk up there and get one... but it's making me a bit uneasy not having something confirmed. Hopefully it'll all work out.

After finishing up the plans, Phil and I went out to see Batman at the giant IMAX theater in the shopping center of Bangkok. It was a little different from movies back home - beforehand, everyone in the theater stood up and was silent as a tribute to the king played on the screen for 2 or 3 minutes. It's absolutely ridiculous how much they love the king over here.

The movie itself was relaxing, but also made me a little homesick. It really has been awhile since I've been in the States (this is my longest stint away from the USA), and I'm starting to feel it. Traveling alone definitely makes it worse; I think I would be perfectly fine if I were with companions. I think from now on I'm going to join group tours the first day I arrive in each location; that way, hopefully I'll meet a couple people with whom I can share some adventures. Phil has been great (the man is a living Lonely Planet guidebook), but we part ways tomorrow so it'll be time for a new crowd.

Anyway, the movie was really good, and it was nice to have a day of doing nothing. The next couple days might be a little hectic, so getting some sleep in now is probably a good idea.

Day 4 in Thailand (Friday, August 1st)

Today, I started off by grabbing a water taxi from the port next to the hostel and going down to Grand Palace. Craig, Becky and I had already been there, but I just wanted to walk the exterior on my way to Wat Po, another tourist must-do. During my stroll around the exterior of Wat Po (I wasn't quite sure where the gate was), I ran into my first true scammer. A man came up to me and asked me where I was going, and when I told him Wat Po he immediately told me that it was closed and that I should go somewhere else. I asked him why it was closed, and he told me that the king's sister died 8 months ago so they were commemorating her death.

That, of course, was a total lie, and also the first major tip-off that this guy was only interested in my wallet. The Lonely Planet (which is actually remarkable for Thailand, as opposed to Taiwan) has a detailed description of how these guys work: they come up to you on the street, tell you the place you want to go is closed, and offer to take you somewhere else. Gotcha, dude! I know it's a little sad, but I got so excited that I had figured this guy out - one point for American tourists!

Anyway, I eventually excused myself and found the entrance to Wat Po, which was open of course. Once again, I was amazed at how well the temple's walls block out the sounds of cars rushing by outside of them. I wandered through for awhile, ending with the big highlight of the Reclining Buddha. It was actually really amazing - the statue was roughly 150 feet long and plated with gold, and seemed to barely fit in the building that housed it (which only made the statue seem larger). Pretty cool.

From there, I wandered back to the river and boarded another water taxi (which work a lot like a subway system, with up to 150-200 people on each boat). I went a couple of stops to the BTS (Skyway) system, where I transferred and rode back to the shopping district. I bought a cell phone and a simple backpack there (for about 35 dollars total) before returning back to the hostel via the Skyway and a local bus - which, by the way, are really fun. All the windows are rolled down, the floors are wood planks, the seats are ready to cave in, and naturally I was the only non-Thai.

I found Phil in the room when I got back, and he and I went out for dinner and beers together. We had grilled chicken, which was pretty good but basically the same as in the US, and some Thai salad, which was something new for me. Tomatoes, limes, carrots, chili's, and probably some things I'm forgetting... pretty good.

And that's it for Bangkok - time to move on to the next adventure!

My Apologies for the Lack of Stories

2008-08-01T08:28:00.001-07:00

Sorry for not keeping this perfectly up-to-date, but the computers here in Thailand have been a bit frustrating. It seems that I can still publish posts, but the pictures will have to wait till later.

Anyway, I've been keeping a journal of everything I've done thus far in Bangkok, and I'll make a point of transcribing it into a post soon enough (now that I've given up on the pictures).

Tomorrow I leave for Sukhothai, a collection of ruins in northern Thailand. Wish me luck!

Four Passports Stamps in One Day

2008-07-27T18:25:00.000-07:00

Craig and I went to Macau (also spelled Macao) yesterday, which I think may have been a bit of a mistake - since going through customs is required each time you leave/enter a country, we had to do it 4 times, including waiting for two hours to get into Macau. So, even though we left the hostel at 9am, we didn't actually get onto the streets until 2pm. Ouch.

The line (or lack thereof) to enter Macau.

The city itself was originally a Portuguese colony, and it still felt very European with its winding alleys, European architecture, English street signs and everybody driving on the left side of the road. It was also hyper-touristy, and chock-full of casinos. Not exactly the best place for a college student on a budget.

The distinctly European architecture in the heart of the historic district.

After finally gaining access, Craig and I first visited the ruins of the Cathedral of Sao Paulo, the most famous historic site in town. From there, we wandered through the small European streets through crowds and street vendors until we found some of the city's famous casinos. I've never been to Vegas, so I was in complete awe of the mammoth golden buildings, surrounded by armies of guards and ornate fountains. I didn't gamble at all, but I did help myself to complimentary waters and warm milk tea - thanks MGM!

Me in front of the ruins of the Cathedral of Sao Paulo.

Wynn Macau.

The Grand Lisboa Casino.

Once we finally got back from Macau (which was another immigration nightmare), I traveled via the city's impeccable MTR system to the famous Temple Street Market. It was very different from the night markets we experienced in Taipei. Tourists, and tourists alone, filled the entire main strip, and my favorite part of Taiwan's night markets was missing - the food cart vendors! There were plenty of things to eat, but none of the snake-on-a-stick places I wanted to find. Thankfully the fish-from-styrofoam-coolers restaurant more than sufficed.

Temple Street Market.

Brings a whole new meaning to "fresh" food.

One more day of Hong Kong, then off to Thailand!

Touchdown in Hong Kong

2008-07-26T04:37:00.000-07:00

This morning I landed in Hong Kong, which I've been exploring all of today. It's so crowded! People are everywhere, and already I've noticed that they are not as courteous as the Taiwanese - I doubt I will encounter kindness like theirs anywhere else in the world.

The city was filled with countdowns to the upcoming Olympic Games.

Things here are much more Westernized than in Taiwan, partially because Hong Kong was under British control for so long. In fact, the Chinese people here who can speak English have a British accent!

The buses and taxis of Hong Kong also pay tribute to the city's heritage.

It's simply amazing how many skyscrapers are here. In every direction they rise hundreds of feet above the ground, creating a forest of 60-story steel structures. It's quite a contrast to the low-level sprawl of Los Angeles.

The buildings adjacent to our hostel.

Craig and I saw our friend (and Global Fellow) Becky perform in a dance show this afternoon, the aimlessly wandered the city for a bit. After grabbing a bowl of Ramen (the good kind, not the instant stuff), all three of us explored the city by night.

Becky performing in Times Square, Hong Kong.

Bank of China building.

The Lan Kwai Fong District, known for its bars and nightlife.

That's it for today - tomorrow we'll be gambling in Macau!

So Long, and Thanks for All the Fish

2008-07-25T02:44:00.000-07:00

I'm fifteen minutes away from completing my internship - woohoo! It's hard to believe that I have less than 24 hours remaining of my two month stay here. I know it's cliche, but it really does feel like it was only yesterday that we were riding that first taxi from the airport into Taipei - laughing at Mariah Carey on the radio, mistaking the Grand Hotel for a temple, and spotting Taipei 101 for the first time. How time flies!

On Monday, I was finally rewarded for all of my hard efforts at Tatung. Craig, Song (a coworker) and I went to the working model factory, where we picked up a sample model of the box I designed. It was incredibly exciting to see the product, and to finally have something physical to show for my labors. For the past seven weeks, I had no physical signs of progress on my project. Now I was holding the final result, the first actual validation that everything I had done was correct. As lame as it may sound, that little box was my baby - I had designed every hole, peg, boss, rib, draft and chamfer on the computer. It was definitely the highlight of my internship.

Here's a couple pictures of my design on the computer, as compared to the final result:

In a weird way, it was strange to know that men much older than me had worked for several days to create the model to my specifications. I'll try to avoid ranting, but some reflection has really made me grateful for all the opportunities I've had. Here I was, a 21-year-old from an upper class family, who's had access to good schools his entire life, providing design instructions to middle aged, working class men. I doubt I would be in such a situation without having a good education and a supportive, fiscally-sound family. Likewise, I think these men probably came from much humbler backgrounds, without access to elite schools nor the money to afford them - their job is certainly not something that children fantasize about, and I doubt they enjoy it very much. Frankly, it was a bit uncomfortable, and I'm glad that they didn't know how old I am (people here tend to think we are older than we actually are).

Later that evening, Craig and I were taken out for dinner by our coworkers. We went to a traditional Chinese restaurant near work, where we ate dozens of dishes family style. My favorite was the mango juice, which was made only from mangoes - no water, no sugar, just the fruit. As one coworker put it, the juice was "very special and very delicious." Following the meal, our coworkers proved their generosity once again by absolutely refusing to allow Craig and I to pay, despite our insistence that USC filled our pockets with money to do just that.

The next day, several of us Fellows finally went to the top of Taipei 101, which is currently the world's tallest building. To get there, we took the world's fastest elevator from the 5th floor to the 89th in a mere 30 seconds, which subsequently caused my ears to pop about 20 times. Once we reached the top, it was immediately apparent that waiting till the last week was indeed a good decision - looking out across the lights of Taipei, we could spot the many locations we had traveled throughout the previous eight weeks. After snapping a few photos and taking in the grandeur of it all, we descended once again in the insanely fast elevator.

On Thursday, I continued doing things for the last time; chiefly, the last load of laundry and the last indulging in one of our favorite local restaurants. None of this know what this dish (see below) is actually called, but to us it was "the thing you get at the beef place."

Friday, my final day in Taiwan. Throughout the day at work, I received numerous gifts from my ludicrously kind coworkers: two coffee mugs, a scale model of Taipei 101, several heartfelt letters, a Tatung Boy (our company mascot) piggy bank, and a traditional Chinese fan with my name written on one side. Additionally, the office held a "graduation" ceremony for Craig and I, in which we were presented certificates that had been signed by all of our coworkers. It was impossible to say thank-you enough, both during our final day at work and throughout the trip as a whole. Taiwanese people are just incredibly, incredibly nice.

That evening, our USC Global Fellows group went out for dinner at a local brewery. We ate grilled sausage, drank Taiwan beer and laughed as the house band ran through American hits, including "Everybody was Kong-Fu Fighting." Yet, it was the utter randomness of the evening that made it such a perfect ending to our trip - the song selection, the terrible dancing by drunk locals, even the restaurants location in the middle of a brewery compound.

And with that final night, we concluded our travels in Taiwan.

Tomorrow I will be departing for Hong Kong with two other Global Fellows, where we will stay for three days before flying to Thailand. I'm not sure how often I'll be able to access the internet during my travels in the coming weeks, but I'll do my best to keep this blog as updated as possible.

Farewell, Taiwan! It's been a pleasure.

The $900 Club

2008-07-24T02:22:00.000-07:00

Our seventh week in Taiwan marked the beginning of the end. It was time to begin purchasing presents for loved ones back home, organizing farewell dinners with coworkers, and flipping through the Lonely Planet one last time to make sure we've done everything. Only two weeks of work and one weekend of fun remained between us and our flight out of Taipei, and we did our best to make the most of it.

Things at work picked up a bit this week. It turns out that when my coworkers told me that my design project was canceled, something was lost in translation. The customer order for the set-top box was indeed withdrawn, but the company still wanted the design to be completed for other potential buyers. I was overjoyed to discover the mistake - all my work was not for nothing! Immediately, I opened up the model that had been untouched for weeks and began to make improvements, tweaking every little detail that could possibly improve the final product. It was invigorating to work while knowing that my design would eventually be not only accepted, but also created and mass produced.

Beyond our work, we continued to experience the life and culture of Taiwan. On Tuesday, we celebrated the birthday of Helen, another USC Global Fellow. After the riotous fun of our last karaoke outing, it was decided that Helen's birthday would be commemorated by our collective attempts to simultaneously shatter glass and perform impressions of dying cats - aka, doing karaoke again.

Like last time, we confirmed that none among us are fit for American Idol. Voices cracked and ears stung in pain as we lost any and all resemblance of dignity. But hey, that's group bonding, right?

Now, if we were a bit older and a tad wiser, our group probably would have stayed in the following night. But alas, we are but foolish college students abroad in a foreign country, with neither common sense nor parents to keep us in check. We only had ten days left in Taiwan! Time to live it up!

The next day, Wednesday, Taipei was honored by a visit from one of hip-hop's rising stars, Flo Rida. The Floridan known for his lone hit "Low" (Apple Bottom Jeans) was more than enough to draw our group out to Luxy, Taipei's premiere night club. Entrance fees increased after 11 pm, so our group rolled up to the front door around 10:30. With a full half-hour to spare, we should be fine, right?

Nope.

Even though Flo Rida wouldn't take the stage for another three hours, the line outside of Luxy already extended out of sight. As we walked towards the end, we passed two or three hundred Taiwanese and foreigners dressed as if they were arriving to a photo shoot. Queuing up behind the hopelessly long line, it looked as if we were doomed to spend the night on the curb. Fortunately, several members of our group happen to be white women and are thus treated like gods among mortals by the men of Taiwan. Using their pale skin and golden hair, our female fellow Fellows found us a spot in line mere feet from the entrance, much closer than our previous position a full city block away. Phew.

The next challenge of the getting-in-gauntlet was the bouncers. They informed us that only patrons with a reserved table were currently being allowed in the club. Did we have a table? Of course! It's under our friend's name, Lin something... Surprisingly, our improvised and incredible lame lie was adequate. Our group was allowed past the first set of goons and herded up to the second, who then demanded to see our IDs (the drinking age in Taiwan is 18). I had lost my driver's license back in California and hadn't brought my passport to the club, so instead I handed over my USC student ID. The bouncer scanned the front and back of the card, looking for my nonexistent birth date, shrugged and handed it back over. A few moments and 900 Taiwanese dollars later (about $30 USD), we were inside a chic silver elevator rising up to the club.

As the elevator doors opened, our group was assaulted by a wall of music. A rhythmic, thumping, bass beat pulsated through our bodies as we made our way to the center floor. We were surrounded by the stereotypes of contemporary nightlife: young entrepreneurs, scandalously dressed women, slimy men, and other foreigners like ourselves. It was only 11, and already the club was over half full (by comparison, my favorite club in Paris was usually vacant until midnight).

After exploring the nooks and crannies of the club (including a techno and a disco room), we returned to the main floor. A constant stream of clubbers had already filled the room, but being that I was at least six inches taller than every person there, it wasn't difficult to navigate the masses to a spot in the center. Using a flurry of poor dance moves, we managed to establish our territory a mere ten feet from the stage. We had our position, and the club had its people. All that was needed was Mr. Rida.

Around 12:30, the night's special festivities began. The stage at the front of the main floor was illuminated as scantily clad women strutted forth from the stage wings and began to dance before the mesmerized crowd. After half an hour of bending and gyrating, they were joined by three blinged -out Taiwanese men: one in jeans and a t-shirt, another with green glasses and the word "Crank" hanging from his neck, and a third that looked like Taiwan's Lil Jon. Together with the women already on stage, they captivated everyone in the club with a choreographed rap/dance routine. All the while, the main floor continued to become more and more densely packed as people continued to enter the club.

At nearly 1:30 am, the Taiwanese rappers and dancers finally finished their act after working the crowd into absolute ecstasy. As they filed off the stage, the room began to fill with anticipation. A single pulsating beat filled the room, gradually growing louder as the crowd's roar increased. Finally, after 2.5 hours of waiting in line, lying to bouncers, wandering the club and dancing up against sweaty, drunk foreigners, the moment we came for had finally arrived: FLO RIDA!

Without warning, one of Flo's cronies burst forth from the shadows with a microphone in hand. "ARE YOU READY FAH FLO RIDA??!!!!" he bellowed above the screaming audience. "IF YOU READY FAH FLO, LET ME HEAR A HELL YEAH!" Of course, there's only one possible response to such a request: "HELL YEAH!" He asked again, and we responded once more. Back and forth we went, with the crowd becoming louder and louder with every exchange.

Suddenly, Flo Rida burst forth from the dark recesses of the stage, shouting as he bounced towards center stage. In his hands he brandished a bottle of champagne, which he began to spray on the crowd. Our group was only feet from the stage, and consequently we became drenched with booze. As soon as Flo emptied his bottle, he launched into the first song of his set as the crowd began to dance along.

Remember that "rave in the cave" scene from The Matrix Reloaded? That's what the club became as Flo continued to "flow" - heads throbbing up and down, people yelling the lyrics as Flo Rida dropped them, strobe lights and cameras flashing, the floor vibrating with every beat, and sweaty bodies pressing against us on all sides. Every hand was in the air. The crowd roared for each song and screamed as we were doused again and again with champagne, water and vodka. At one point, Flo Rida turned around, ripped off his shirt, revealing a tattoo of Florida that encompassed his entire back. As women in the club screamed at the sight of his bulging muscles, Flo poured an entire bottle of champagne on his head and across his body. It was impossible to speak above the shouts and never-ending rhythm. Instead, we joined the mob about us: dancing, yelling, and losing ourselves in the fray.

After several songs, Flo took a break from rapping and addressed the crowd. "Aight, fah this next song, we gonna need some shawties (girls) up on stage." Once again, the room was filled with ear-piercing screams as every woman attempted to reach the stage at once. Since our group was near the front, two female Fellows climbed on up and joined Flo Rida . Moments later, the roar from the crowd nearly shattered every glass in the room as the opening notes of "Low" emanated from the sound system. It was absolute mayhem as the entire audience shouted every word and pulsated with every beat. Flo stretched the three minute song into fifteen as he made his way from the stage, through the crowd, and onto the bar across the room. Perched on the bar counter with fans clawing at him from every side, FloRida pounded out the refrain once more before finally ending amidst thunderous applauding and deafening yells from the crowd.

Note: This video contains vulgar language.

It was three in the morning by the time we got home, a mere four hours before we had to get up for work. I was exhausted, disheveled, and drenched with sweat, champagne and water. My voice was nearly gone, and I could only hear sounds louder than the unwavering buzzing in my ears. What a night.

We took Thursday off.

I spent the majority of Saturday doing exactly what I do on Saturdays back home - watching cheap movies and devouring junk food. It was nice to have a day just to relax, especially after the crazy events of the past week. In an effort to keep the day from being a total waste, I went ice skating at a local rink later in the evening, followed by gift shopping at the Shilin night market.

On Sunday, Craig and I took a bus to Keelung, a port city on Taiwan's northern coast. We first scaled the stone steps placed up to the highest peak in the city, where a series of three pagodas were placed in a row. From there, we worked our away along a ridge line path to plaza perched atop a neighboring hill, where a forty foot statue overlooking the city was surrounded by a ring of smaller sculptures and two gargantuan stone lions. We even climbed inside of the larger statue, where several peepholes provided a view of the area.

While coming down from the hills, we stumbled across a parade tracing its way through Keelung's streets. Young people beat giant drums dragged along by cars, while others danced in traditional Chinese dress. Many participants carried wooden boxes suspended between long poles, which were moved up and down causing the boxed to bounce. Old men played on nasal instruments, producing some of the most annoying music I have ever heard. We later learned that the parade was a ceremony for the spirits - ancestors play a large role in Taiwanese culture and religion.

Craig and I then set off for harbor, from where we caught a boat going to Keelung Island. It was absolutely beautiful - covered with lush vegetation and shear cliffs, the island looked like the location of a Bond villain's hideout. We walked a path along the coast, and boarded the ship again for a tour around the backside. Back in the harbor, we made a quick pass through the fish market before departing.

Returning to the city of Keelung, Craig and I dove into the city's famous night market to grab some dinner. I'm not exactly sure what I ate, but it looked something like a giant dumpling filled with sausage. Afterward, we reunited with the other Fellows (who had been on an office outing in the area) and took the bus home, thus concluding our epic second-to-last week in Taiwan.

Random Ruminations: Taiwan's People

2008-07-23T00:55:00.000-07:00

Continuing on from yesterday, here's some more Q&A. Don't forget to send me an email (BenVatterott@gmail.com) or leave a comment if there is anything else that you are curious about.

What are the people like in Taiwan?

This is a tough question to properly answer. My Lonely Planet guidebook devotes four pages to the psyche and lifestyle of the Taiwanese, and another twenty on their history, economy and culture. Attempting to describe the people we have met in just a few paragraphs cannot possibly do them justice (and will be filled with generalizations), but hopefully I can at least provide a basic idea of how the Taiwanese differ from Americans.

Above all, people here are nice. Very, very nice; as nice as the weather is hot. Their kindness puts Minnesota nice to shame. Regardless of location, time of day, or who we encounter, everyone is excited to interact with us. People approach us on the street when we look lost, offering to provide directions. When we are attempting to decipher menus in restaurants, other patrons pause from eating their dinners to assist us. Even the bus driver on our route to work, who has come to recognize Craig and I, will wait for us at our stop if he sees us running to catch him.

I also could not possibly say enough about the kindness of our NTU (National Taiwanese University) hosts. During our first week, they took is out for dinner several times, helped us find out way to work, assisted us in buying our MRT cards and cell phone SIM cards, invited us to their graduation, and were always around to help us become acclimated. Beyond our first week, they have continued to aid us whenever possible, whether it is reserving a karaoke room or buying a birthday cake. Our group has been exceptionally fortunate to have had such great hosts.

The rest of the Global Fellows and I with several NTU students at Chris's (center) graduation.

People at work have been amazing as well. Our coworkers have taken Craig and I out for dinner twice, and have even paid for us (despite our insistence that USC provides money to pay for them). It's not unusual for them to bring us local foods during the afternoon or suggest places for us to visit. One of them in particular, Mountain Lin, has taken us out for shaved ice, provided a tour of his design exhibit, guided us through a night market, and just yesterday presented Craig and I with jade pendants (which aren't cheap).

NTU students (left) and Mountain (right) help us order hot chocolate.

In fact, people here are so willing to assist us that they often do so at their own personal expense. A few days ago, Craig lost his umbrella, but was lent one by hotel worker at the front desk. It wasn't until we returned from the office ten hours later that we realized it was her personal umbrella, which she had offered that morning without a moment's hesitation. Another example would be several weeks ago, when I asked a local where I could find a laundromat. Instead of pointing or providing directions, the man began to sprint up an alley before stopping in front of a dry-cleaners, checking that it was adequate, and immediately running off again.

Our guidebook suggests that this behavior is a result of Taiwan's geopolitical position: they are not allowed to participate in the UN, and Taiwan is rarely recognized as a country by other nations or international organizations. But foreign visitors, through the very act of applying for a Taiwanese visa, are in a way acknowledging Taiwan. Perhaps then, the kindness of Taiwan's people towards foreigners is really an attempt to thank us for visiting.

This is probably true, but I also feel that much of the friendliness we have encountered stems from Taiwan's obsession with America. Everywhere I go, I am bombarded with American culture: advertisements for the latest Hollywood film, Avril Lavigne ring tones, McDonald's and Burger King, Yankees paraphernalia, Abercrombie polo's, clubs blaring hip-hop music, etc. Everyone is required to learn minimal English in school, and there is an overwhelming demand for English teachers. Foreigners teachers with no experience in education are paid up to ten times as much as a fast food worker for their services (the equivalent of $80/hour in the U.S.).

It's actually somewhat disheartening, for it seems as if American culture is ousting Taiwan's. Residents of Taiwan obsess over the MLB and NBA, yet the local sports teams go unnoticed. Theaters primarily show American films. Young people wear t-shirts with English phrases. America's presence is felt throughout Taipei.

Outside of urban areas and typical tourist destinations, the lifestyle seems to be more authentically Taiwanese. During our hike through the mountains south of Taipei, Craig and I wandered through several smaller towns that were seemingly untouched by America's influence. It was refreshing not only to get out of the city's concrete jungle and also to experience true Taiwanese culture. Life moved a little slower out there. People seemed unhurried and happy to be so. It was a stark contrast to Taipei, where everyone is always bustling about.

I've also noticed that it is typical for people here to become consumed by their work. When Craig and I leave Tatung at 6pm everyday, we are usually the first people to walk out. Most of our coworkers will stay another hour before departing, while some don't go home until nine. One of the other Fellows, Jeff, remains at his office until nearly 7pm and is still the first the leave. What's more, many people only take 20-30 minute lunch breaks to quickly devour a small meal before returning to work or laying down for a nap (usually in the middle of their cubicle).

Based off of my experience, I believe this obsession with one's profession may be due to the importance placed on automation and efficiency. Perhaps people see it as a waste to leave work by 5pm if there is more to accomplish, especially if there is little to do at home. An aversion to wasting time can certainly be found elsewhere in society, such as people queuing up on the MRT and buses well before their stop, or their constant use of the open/close buttons on the elevator - waiting a mere five seconds for the doors to close themselves is far too long.

The importance of efficiency is most prevalent in Taipei's transportation system, which is not flawless but still improving. Subway lines connect the major hubs of the city, while buses run everywhere in between. Taxis roam the streets constantly looking for potential customers. Residents typically don't drive cars, but use mopeds instead as a cheaper and smaller alternative. Not only do these scooters cost less to purchase and operate, but they also reduce congestion both on the road and in the parking lot. Plus, they're really fun to drive.

Finally, one last observation: people flee from the sun. As I mentioned in a previous post, pale is considered beautiful in Taiwan. Locals wanting to remain as pasty as possible often use umbrellas on sunny days to protect themselves, or instead scurry from one patch of shade to another on their way to work. When one of the other USC Fellows became sunburned, her Taiwanese coworkers asked her how it felt as none of them had ever experienced it. It certainly is slightly different from California, land of the blond and bronzed.

That's really all I can think of for now, but I'll be sure to add some additional thoughts and theories if they come to me. If you have any thoughts, corrections or questions, feel free to send me an email or leave a comment below.

Random Ruminations: Taiwan's Weather

2008-07-21T22:06:00.000-07:00

As some of you may have noticed, my posts thus far have been primarily focused on recounting past events, without much wordage spent on more general observations or reflections. Certainly, my writing has covered the highlights of our trip, but to paint a more vibrant and accurate picture of Taiwan, it is necessary to fill in some of the details. I intended to blog about such things throughout the trip, but those of you that know me are aware that I tend to accomplish tasks as late as possible - I even waited to write the application essays for this Global Fellows program until the morning that they were due.

Anyway, since it's now my last week here, I would like to at least include something outside of the usual recap. I've received a slew of questions from people stateside, so I thought I would post some of my responses for the next couple days. Hopefully this will help illuminate the finer intricacies of what it means to live and work in Asia.

If you are curious about a particular aspect of my adventures in Taiwan, feel free to leave a comment or drop me an email at BenVatterott@gmail.com.

What's the been weather like?

It's hot. Really, really hot.

Perhaps the most obvious of today's revelations, but worth mentioning nonetheless. Every excursion outside, regardless of how long or how far, inevitably results in panting, sweating, and general dishevelment. On particularly hot days, even the five minute walk from our hotel to the bus stop causes me to sweat through both my undershirt and dress shirt. If you ever come to Taiwan, make sure to bring plenty of deodorant.

Just so you get an idea of how hellish it can be, here's the current weather in Taipei. Pay particular attention to the "Feels Like" section.

On a related meteorological note, there's also no such thing as a drizzle in Taiwan. When it rains, it pours, and anyone so unfortunate as to forget their umbrella-ella-ella will find themselves immediately drenched. Between the sweating and the raining, it's essentially impossible to go anywhere without getting wet somehow.

Have you seen any crazy tropical storms?

Not yet. Two typhoons have formed in the Western Pacific since we've been here, but both skirted around Taiwan and only caused typical downpours. Typhoons usually only hit Taipei/Taiwan in late summer, and can be so intense that the local government declares a weather emergency. Schools and businesses will close, and residents will remain inside to wait out the weather. Even walking down the street is dangerous, as the powerful gusts of wind may cause street debris to become deadly. Naturally, us Fellows have been hoping for a typhoon to hit so that we can miss work, but thus far our prayers have been unanswered.

We have, however, experienced two earthquakes during our tenure here. Both have been relatively minor - I actually slept through the first, which occurred early in the morning during our first week. The second earthquake struck while I was on the 14th (and top) floor of the building in which I work. The whole structure began to sway ever so slightly, though my coworkers only looked up and smiled before returning to business. Despite living in Southern California for three years, this was my first earthquake, and it (terrible joke alert) "shook" me up a little. After the quake, I found it difficult to focus on my work without entertaining thoughts of our building collapsing due to an aftershock... but fortunately, no such thing happened.

More to come tomorrow! And don't forget - if there's anything you would like me to elaborate upon, shoot me an email or leave me a comment below. Thanks!

Swirling Pink Torpedoes

2008-07-20T17:48:00.000-07:00

It's hard to believe how quickly this summer has flown by - in just five days, I'll be leaving Taiwan after living and working here for two months. Afterwards, several Fellows and I are flying to Hong Kong for several days, followed by three weeks of backpacking through Thailand (and possibly Cambodia).

Work continues to be a little slow. I've gone back to creating 3D models of electronic components, but the tasks are infrequent and rather boring. It's not unusual for me to go an entire day without doing more than an hour of actual work, despite repeatedly asking my coworkers if I can help with anything. Of course, I don't mind entirely too much, as I have been using the time to take care of school paperwork, read my Taiwan guidebook, and compose these horrid blog entries. Things should pick up near the end of my internship, but I certainly haven't been minding the extra downtime (which is rare outside of work).

On Tuesday, our group attended a baseball game between the Elephants and the T-Rex, two local teams. Despite their tee-ball names, the level of play was about on par with MLB minor league teams - all the real talent in Taiwan leaves for larger markets, like Japan or the USA. Being that baseball is followed here like football in Texas, the few players that make it to the MLB become national heroes. The most popular is Chien-Ming Wang, the Yankees ace starting pitcher. All of his starts, and nearly every Yankees game in between, have been televised in Taiwan, where Wang jerseys are commonplace. Even ATMs display highlights from his latest outing. To put it lightly, baseball is kind of a big deal here.

Our night at the ballpark provided no evidence to the contrary. Despite a meager attendance of only one or two thousand, every at-bat became a cheering contest between Elephant and T-Rex fans. People chanted, clapped, waved giant flags and beat gargantuan drums, similar to a Atlanta Braves game (but much less hillbilly). At one point, half the stadium inflated giant hot-dog-esque balloons and simultaneously released them, filling the evening sky with hundreds of swirling pink torpedoes.

Similar to the U.S., the available concessions could be summed up in a word: caloric. I had corn dogs, hot dogs (complete with rice buns), popcorn, sausage on a stick, and naturally a beer or two to wash things down. Quite a dietary change of pace from the usual soups, noodle dishes and dumplings we usually have for dinner. What's more, the whole night (transport, tickets and food) cost less than $20 U.S. Not bad, especially for seats behind home plate.

Wednesday and Thursday were a bit more relaxed, as I explored a park one night and went bowling the next. I barely fit into the largest shoes available at the bowling alley, but as they only cost 67 cents to rent, I wasn't horribly upset.

On Saturday, several fellows and I took off for the mountains bordering southern Taipei, where we boarded a gondola bound for Maokong. During our ride up, we were treated to spectacular views of Taipei and the surrounding terrain, all illuminated by a fiery setting sun. Brief pauses in our conversation allowed for the sounds of the forest underneath our car to float through the open windows: birds chirping, the buzz of insects, and above all the tranquility of life beyond the city. With a light breeze blowing through the cabin and beautiful sights about us, it was quite a relaxing moment.

Upon reaching the end of the line, we set out for a tea house that had been recommended to me and Craig during our hike several weeks back (which ended in Maokong ). A five minute walk from the gondola terminal, the house seemed to be completely undiscovered by the throngs of tourists gathered about the cable cars, and was consequently much more serene. We were seated at a stone table, complete with matching seats, on the back patio which overlooked the mountains sloping down into Taipei. Our kind host, who thankfully spoke English, taught us how to properly prepare the local tea, which we sipped upon while looking out upon the grandeur about us. After serving the other customers, he sat down with us and shared his life story - where he grew up, where he went for school, and how he was currently waiting for his military orders (all men in Taiwan must serve a mandatory term in the military). This was exactly what I had in mind when I imagined coming to Asia: sitting in a tea house perched upon the side of a mountain, watching the sun set over the rolling hills and jungle while sharing good drink and good stories. It was perfect.

Sunday started bright and early at 6am, when two other Fellows and I caught a four and a half hour bus to Sun Moon Lake, Taiwan's top tourist destination (outside of Taipei). Our first stop was the stunning Wenwu Temple, a magnificent structure overlooking the lake. Guarded by two giant stone lions, the temple was my favorite thus far. A quick climb to the roof of a back building provided a picture perfect view of the area, nearly identical to the photograph printed in our Lonely Planet guidebook.

After a few side explorations, we ventured on to Tsen Pagoda, a towering remnant of the Chiang Kai-shek era. Rising from atop the area's tallest peak, the pagoda offered a 360 degree view of the lake from precisely one thousand meters above sea level. Not surprisingly, the sight was breathtakingly beautiful.

Once descended from the tower, we spent several hours eating and perusing through the lakeside towns before boarding a bus bound for Taipei. Spending nine hours on a bus is not exactly my ideal day, but getting out of metropolitan Taipei and experiencing Sun Moon Lake was well worth the boredom and sore back.

Five days to go (but two weeks of blogging to make-up)!

Photo Credits: Kili Maii, Craig Western

Pan-Flutes and Panoramic Views

2008-07-09T02:25:00.000-07:00

It's official - my office has completely run out of worthwhile tasks for me and Craig. For the last couple days, I've been assigned to teach myself AutoCAD, a draft/model/architecture drawing program. Given that most people take courses on the software rather than teach themselves, at first I was a little worried. But of course, this was before realizing that the entire program is in Chinese, with no option to change languages. Great.

Furthermore, the IPTV set-top box I was assigned to design was abruptly cancelled on the same day that I finally completed it. Apparently the customer no longer liked the external appearance, and decided to go with a different model. Suffice it to say that I haven’t been too excited to come to work lately.

Fortunately, life outside of work atones for the drudgery inside. Despite our perpetual exhaustion, the other Fellows and I manage to continuously immerse ourselves in this country and its culture.

On Tuesday, Craig and I accompanied a coworker to a design show featuring his work. Afterwards, he brought us over to a local night market and helped us order all sorts of tasty treats: sweet Tea, spicy Thai salad, Sushi, and a Taiwanese-style burger. I was a fan of the hole-in-the-wall restaurant where we ordered the burgers: the only items on their menu were 1) burger with no fat, 2) burger with some fat, and 3) burger with lots of fat. I guess Americans do the same thing, except we call it “Supersizing.”

We continued our fatty-food-fest on Wednesday with dinner at Alleycats, which our guidebook described as a “dark and swanky basement pizzeria with the best stone-oven pizza in Taipei.” They were right. Pizza here is definitely hit or miss, and thankfully Alleycats was the prior. The last time I ordered a pizza, it was only 6 inches across and well short of satisfying. Alleycats, on the other hand, served us family size pizza and calzones, smothered with greasy cheese. Combined with a glass of their hard cider, it was the best American food that I’ve had here.

All of us Fellows managed to get off from work for the Fourth of July, so on Thursday night we boarded an overnight bus bound for the sun and sands of southern Taiwan. We arrived in Kaohsiung bright and early at 4:45 am, and after some confusion, managed to hire a van to take us the rest of the way.

If you’ve been extremely bored this summer and consequently have actually been reading my horrific attempts at chronicling these adventures (engineers should never be allowed to write), then you may know by now that no van rides are ever quite normal in Taiwan. This was no exception. In addition to the usual erratic driving and flagrant traffic law violations, our driver also saw fit to provide us with some additional entertainment (as if watching him zoom through red lights and swerve about pedestrians wasn’t enough). After getting on the freeway, he flipped open a ceiling-mounted DVD player and pressed play. Immediately we were greeted by the sounds of Taiko drums, a chamber orchestra, an electric guitar and a full choir, while onscreen a man wearing a billowy, red satin shirt rocked out on a pan-flute. Naturally, it was only a moment before the van exploded with laughter. What on Earth were we watching?

So, there we were, eight exhausted and disheveled college students crammed into a van going 90 mph and weaving in and out of traffic. Outside, the sun was breaking over the mountains, jungles and beaches of southern Taiwan, but inside we were deliriously laughing at an absurd concert featuring (as we later found out) an internationally acclaimed pan-flutist. Life can certainly be a little odd at times.

By 6:15 we were in Kenting, and minutes later we were already at the beach. A few Fellows couldn’t wait to get into the water, but the rest of us collapsed on the sand for a much-needed nap. After reviving ourselves, we rented a couple of scooters, gassed ‘em up, and took off for southern Taiwan’s most popular beach.

Baisha Beach was something out of a movie: white sand, clear turquoise waters with scattered coral, and palm trees all around. After dousing myself with enough sunscreen to keep a vampire safe, I swam in the warm Pacific waters (much warmer than LA), soaked up the sun, and was mobbed by Taiwanese girls looking for a photo. Pretty standard morning.

That afternoon, we rode our mopeds down the remaining west coast, around the tip of Taiwan, and back up the east coast until finally reaching our hotel. Our room was perfect – two stories with several beds (there were eight of us, after all) and a balcony overlooking the ocean. After dropping off our luggage, the gang headed back to the city for some good ‘ol American food – it was the Fourth, after all! So, we grabbed a few burgers, sang some broken lines of “God Bless the USA,” and searched unsuccessfully for fireworks. Like any other Americans, we became bored when we couldn’t find anything to blow up, so we called it a night and returned to the hotel.

On Saturday, several people rented surfboards, while I and a few others took off on a scenic drive up the coast on our mopeds (I’ll admit – I really enjoy zooming around on those things). We saw some quite unusual rock formations, as well as a beautiful waterfall spilling over the mountains that line the coast. Returning to the hotel, we lounged on the beach for awhile, explored some local shops, bought a few sausages on sticks (my favorite snack), and generally just lived the life of beach bums.

The following day, we returned to our favorite swimming hole from our last venture to the south: the natural cove next to Sail Rock. Several hours later, we were back on a bus to Taipei, and ready to begin our sixth week here in Taiwan.

Photo Credits: Cyndy Hernandez, Craig Western

Ridin' on Bus 666

2008-07-03T00:53:00.000-07:00

This past weekend marked the halfway point of my two months here in Taiwan, and there is still so much I haven’t done. I spent most of last week recovering from the weekend while checking-off local must-do’s.

After work on Tuesday, several of us Fellows met with our NTU hosts and also some coworkers at Ice Monster, a well-known shaved ice chain. It was easy to understand how the store has become so popular – even at night, our mango-topped ice was an incredibly refreshing contrast to the heat and humidity.

On Wednesday, we made our first trek out to Taiwan’s natural hot springs, located within walking distance of an MRT station. Consequently, Craig and I were there within an hour of finishing work, and had plenty of time to eat some questionable blobs of Lord-knows-what from a local buffet. Afterwards, we met up with other Fellows and our ever-gracious NTU hosts, walked up to the springs, and paid a bank-breaking entrance fee of NT$40 (about $1.40 US). Fortunately, (or unfortunately, depending on your disposition), the springs were mixed-gender, and hence bathing suits were required (the opposite is true of single-sex springs, where the only suit allowed is your birthday suit). We started in the medium-hot pool, retreated to the icy cold, then settled on the not-so-hot pool, which still felt plenty warm given the hot and humid ambient air. Besides one older man, we were the only foreigners there, and not surprisingly the locals shamelessly stared at us. Given that paleness is considered beautiful here, and that my farmer’s tan has yielded a stomach about as tan as Casper’s, it’s no wonder why they couldn’t keep their eyes off my perfectly toned abs… just kidding.

This past Saturday, our group helped the local USC office with their annual student send-off. After setting-up, we met with incoming undergraduates and talked about our experiences at USC. I was impressed with how fearless the students were – I still remember how hard it was for me to move from Minnesota to California, and I can’t even imagine how difficult it would be to come from Taiwan. It was great to see such a showing of USC pride over 8,000 miles from Los Angeles, though I doubt many of our Asian friends knew that our Fight On’s weren’t just peace signs.

On Sunday, Craig and I set off at 6 am for a hike in the hills south of Taipei. Having become accustomed to only seeing Taipei during the hustle of the day and evening, it was strange to see the city so empty. Taipei is definitely a city that moves, and I had almost forgotten it until I was walking upon its deserted streets.

To get to our hike, Craig and I took the MRT several stops and transferred to bus 666, which ferried us to the township containing the start of our trail. Ironically, exiting the bus felt like entering Hell – even at 7:30 am, the mountain air was insanely hot and humid. Using the three sentence description of the hike in our guidebook, we eventually managed to find the trailhead with the help of some very kind locals.

The hike itself was amazing – nearly 10 miles across three mountain peaks and the interconnecting ridgelines, with much of the trail requiring ropes and ladders. In several sections, steps had even been hewn into rocks as to provide ample footing. Once we reached the summits, we were rewarded with incredible panoramic views of the rolling hills and forests surrounding southern Taipei. Our trek ended in Maokong, a mountain village renowned for its tea houses and fantastic views.

Originally, Craig and I were planning to take the gondola from Maokong back the MRT, but just as we reached the station, a thunderstorm hit the town and the gondola line was shut down. So, with the assistance of yet another helpful local, Craig and I hopped into a van heading down the mountain along with a group of ten chatty Asian women. Drenched with rain and having no idea of what was going on, Craig and I talked to just each other for the first few minutes, trying to avoid thinking about how fast we were plummeting down the side of a mountain during the middle of a torrential rainstorm, in a twenty year-old van nonetheless. After some time, one of the other passengers turned to speak with us as the rest drew silent.

“So, why are you going to Danshui?”

Craig and I looked at each other, not sure what she could possibly mean. Danshui is a port city north of Taipei, roughly 30 miles away, making it 29 miles further than we wanted to travel. We had been told by a local woman that this van should just go to the bottom of the mountain, but her English wasn’t quite perfect…

Seeing our look of confusion, the young woman cocked her head and asked with a puzzled face,

“This van is going to Danshui. You want to go to Danshui, right? It’s $1000 NT.”

Craig and I panicked. We had been expecting a $50 NT ride to the nearest MRT stop, not a $1000 fare for an unwanted destination. Both of us started to stutter responses and shake our heads, but before we could manage a coherent response, the entire van erupted in laughter. Completely and utterly confused, Craig and I looked at each other again, and then back at the giggling girls.

“JUST KIDDING! HAHAHAHA!”

Yes, we had been had. It was the first time that a local has capitalized on our complete ignorance of Mandarin, and admittedly it was quite funny. It’s amazing to think that nobody has previously taken advantage of us (at least that we know of). People here have been incredibly gracious and kind, and the notion that they might actually lie had never occurred to me. I was definitely caught by surprise when this woman did so, even though it was all in good fun.

Later in the day, several us braved the rain and went to Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, another must-see according to our trusty Lonely Planet guidebook. Although we arrived too late to explore the exhibits, we were still able to wander through the plaza and around the illuminated buildings.

Our final stop of the weekend was Shilin Night market, where we grabbed rice hot dogs, milk-fruit smoothies and cheese-injected corndogs. Yum. And just like that, I am officially halfway done with my stint here in Taiwan – four more weeks to go!

Photo Credits: Mountain Lin, Pamelida Chang, Craig Western

Jimmy Buffet on Repeat

2008-06-25T01:31:00.001-07:00

This past Monday, I began my rise to fame as a Taiwanese entertainment legend. Craig and I had been asked during our first week at Tatung if we would like to be in a commercial for the company, and naturally replied with broad smiles and violent nodding. So, instead of spending Monday morning in a cubicle, Craig and I were front and center in a Taiwanese commercial shoot, providing the “diversity” component of the company (yes, two white blond guys represent diversity). Each of us spent a couple minutes performing solo in front of the camera, and we also had a group segment with our co-workers. The final product will likely be the corniest thirty seconds of television ever produced, though we won’t find out for sure until it’s broadcasted to all of Taiwan.

Of course, Monday also marked the 21st anniversary of my arrival into this world. To commemorate such a momentous occasion, my fellow Fellows and I went karaoking at CashBox, a behemoth five-story karaoke complex. This place was entirely unlike any karaoke place in Los Angeles – instead of 30 inch TVs and stained carpets, CashBox offered huge flat screens, wood paneling, leather couches and a private bathroom. Throughout the night, smartly-dressed waiters milled in out of the room, providing platters of food and even a birthday cake. Perhaps even more impressive was that none of them even cracked a smile while being subjected to our atrocious attempts to belt out “I Want it That Way.” Needless to say, both my voice and hearing were shot by the end of the evening (but not my liver, thank god).

Later in the week, both Craig and I were treated to several factory tours. First up was the prototype shop, where the first working models of a product are created. If the part designs are simply enough, the 3D model (like those I work on) can be fed directly to a computer-controlled tooling machine, which then creates the part. However, more complex designs require that the part be meticulously crafted by hand.

Next up was the mold factory, where finalized designs are used to create permanent molds that can later be used for mass production. Most of the work here was performed through Electrical Discharge Machining (EDM), a process through which electrical shocks of several hundred volts are delivered to a small area on the part, hence removing a small amount of material during each shock cycle. We also had the opportunity to examine a finished mold, complete with cooling tubes and ejector pins for removing the final plastic product.

When the molds are completed, they are brought to the plastic injection molding factory, where they are used to mass-produce parts. Craig and I saw a huge variety of plastic injection machines, which use the molds to produce piece after piece. Since the molds are interchangeable, these machines were making everything from flat-screen back covers to router boxes to car bumpers. For me, the coolest part of the whole experience was that it finally brought the entire process of designing and creating parts full-circle, all the way from market research to assembling the final part.

On Friday, our group went out to the movies. Now, in case I haven’t mentioned it, there are more girl Fellows than guys. As a result, the gentlemen were coerced into seeing Sex and the City, a full two and a half hours of suffering that we will never get back. Fortunately, despite the film’s lack of entertainment, the audience thankfully provided all the laughs for the evening with their reactions to the movie – when a character in the movie is presented with her very own Louis Vuitton purse, the entire room gasped in unison. Consequently, I nearly died of laughter.

On Saturday morning, we joined a group of Taiwanese USC alum in taking the high-speed train to Kaohsiung, a city near the south end of the island. Kaohsiung is also home to the Bluefin Tuna Festival, which is held annually during the bluefin fishing season. Every morning during the festival, fishermen bring in fresh tuna to the docks, which are then filleted and sold to restaurants. Our group of alum and students ate our lunch at one such restaurant, where we were served plate after plate of freshly cut raw tuna, fried squid, river shrimp and fish-head soup. Afterwards, we visited the docks and walked through the fish market before boarding a bus bound for Kenting, the southernmost city in Taiwan.

Kenting looked and felt like a town straight out of Baja California, the kind of place where you’d expect to find flocks of tourists and Jimmy Buffet on repeat. Turquoise waters washed upon sandy beaches and coral sea cliffs, which were flanked by pastel-colored hostels and shops. The main street was a tourist haven, with countless vendors offering food, fun, and trinkets. All of this was surrounded by the jungle and rising mountains of Kenting National Park, Taiwan’s oldest national park.

After checking into our hostel, we wasted no time donning our swimsuits and sprinting to the nearest beach. Even though it was almost five pm, the ocean’s waters were still warm and inviting. We spent an hour in the water before the sun set and the beach closed, and then grabbed dinner at “La Margarita,” a Mexican restaurant nearby. If you ever happen to eat here, remember not to get the risotto - ordering an Italian dish at a Mexican restaurant in Taiwan is not the best idea. After dinner, our group perused the street stalls and shops, grabbing a couple snacks and gladly agreeing to take photos with numerous gawking Taiwanese tourists. I may be losing weight here, but certainly not any ego.

On Sunday, several of us rented mopeds and took off down the coastline. Our first stop was a majestic stone island rising out of the ocean, surrounded by water on three sides and coral on the fourth. We parked our scooters and walked across the dried coral to the base of the giant rock face, where the shelter of the island had created a perfect swimming hole. We dove in, swam around for a bit, talked to other American tourists, and soaked up plenty of rays.

After a pit stop for some American breakfast (I’ve been sorely missing pancakes), we continued exploring the coast. I certainly can’t fully explain the beauty we saw – the ocean meeting sand beaches nestled between towering cliffs, rolling fields of green tableland, and mountains towering above the coast for as far as we could see. We pulled over at a scenic vista just to take in the majesty of it all.

Finally, our last stop was at a secluded sandy delta at the base of a ravine. The shore was speckled with coral boulders the size of cars and a freshwater stream flowing from the mountains into the ocean. There were only a handful of other people with whom we shared this picturesque paradise, and not even a single person in the water. We stayed as long as we were able, then hopped back on our mopeds for the ride back.

Now, originally we were planning to take a standard bus from Kenting back to Kaohsiung, where we would hop back on the high-speed rail. However, earlier that morning we were offered a better rate than the bus from an entirely random man driving a VW bus around town. Initially, we were a little unsure, but we decided to go with him to save a little dough.

Best. Decision. Ever.

To begin with, the driver was late. Not a moment or two late, but a good 40 minutes. Considering that we had a train to catch in just under three hours and it had taken 2.5 hours to get to Kenting, we were slightly worried. Finally, after several exasperated phone calls, a different driver shows up to our pick-up point with a much older, less-than-safe-looking VW bus. There was also already a passenger in the front seat, which meant that we now had to sit four to a row in the back. Great.

After loading up, we took off to find the last two members of our group, Kili and Cyndy, who were getting picked up elsewhere in town. Our driver seemed normal for these first few placid minutes, obeying all traffic laws and staying within the lines on the road. As we passed Cyndy and Kili on the opposite side of the road, we signaled to the driver that they were our companions. And then we finally realized what was in store for us on this trip.

Immediately, without even checking his mirrors, the driver executed a full-speed U-turn across four lanes of traffic, screeching to a halt directly in front of the bewildered Kili and Cyndy. They hopped in, and before they were even seated we are off again. Not long afterwards we came to our first red light and blew right through it, not even slowing down to check for cops. At the next red light, he avoided the stopped traffic by swerving onto the shoulder, turning right at the intersection, immediately executing another hair-raising U-turn and getting back on the original road, all in a grand total of five seconds. The erratic driving didn’t stop there: we dove in and out of traffic lanes, used the shoulder whenever possible, blared the horn at every car we encountered, and nearly ran over pedestrians. To top it off, our driver was concurrently attempting to smoke as many cigarettes as possible, and hence had only one free hand with which to drive and honk. Space Mountain has nothing on that ride.

Not surprisingly, our trip was an hour shorter than expected, and we reached the station well before our train departed. Three hours later, I was in my hotel bed, hoping that in the morning I would be rested for another crazy seven days.

Photo Credits: Craig Western, Jeanie Lin

Week 2: Bigger, Longer & Uncut

2008-06-18T22:19:00.000-07:00

Another week, another set of stories. Oh my. Where to begin?

Perhaps a chronological approach would be most prudent… I don’t know how else to possibly organize the chaotic, seemingly unrelated string of events that has become my life. My previous post concluded with last Sunday’s stroll on the river bank, so let’s get started with Monday’s painful, yet inevitable, return to work.

My usual routine for a weekday morning is as follows: wake up around seven, be downstairs for breakfast by 7:30 and leave for work by eight. Since Tatung is located relatively close to the hotel, I often arrive up to half an hour early to the office. Having an extra 20 or 30 minutes before work has proven to be quite useful – though it’s nearly nine in the morning here in Taiwan, it’s almost eight in the evening back in ‘ol Minnesota, making it the perfect time to call back home. Like everything else in Taiwan, it’s been surprisingly cheap too – though I call back to the States at least once a day, I’ve spent less than five bucks. Even 10-10-220 can’t beat that (sorry Terry Bradshaw).

During the actual workday, I still spend most of my time building 3D models of electronic components and IPTV set-top boxes, which can become a bit dull after two weeks. Fortunately, the models I create and the techniques necessary to create them accurately are both becoming increasingly more difficult, which at least provides an opportunity to be challenged and learn some new things. Also, I’ve moved past the tutorials and on to projects that are actual useful for the department, such as the previously mentioned Deutsche Telekom box.

Since most of the more complex (and therefore cooler-looking) models I work with have yet to be manufactured, I can’t post any really neat pictures yet. Instead, to provide an idea of what this whole process looks like, here are some of the practice models I constructed during the first week:

Outside of the cubicle jungle, there are plenty of places, people and delicious treats to relieve and revive me after eight hours in front of a computer screen. After work on Monday, our group of students went to another of Taipei’s famous night markets and pigged-out on Korean BBQ. Thankfully, we were accompanied by Jeanie, a Taiwanese friend from the USC office who speaks flawless Mandarin. Without her help, it’s likely that we would have ordered dog brains (or something worse) by mistake.

On Wednesday night, Craig and I accompanied several of our coworkers to Huaxi Street Night Market, located adjacent to Longshan Temple (which we visited way back on Day Dos). We first had delicious seafood soup with bean-noodles at an old, well-known restaurant, and then wandered through the streets, picking up bites of food here and there (spicy fried squid was my favorite). Somewhere in our aimless meandering, our group found a restaurant specializing in snakes, where the eight-fingered owner was entertaining passerby’s by prodding, poking and downright provoking a king cobra – really makes you wonder how he lost those digits. While we watched this crazy local toy with the snake, one of our Taiwanese coworkers (in fact, they are all Taiwanese) went in and spoke with the vendor’s wife inside. When he emerged, the wife ran up to her husband and told him something in Mandarin – meaning, of course, that we still had no idea what was going on. The vendor rose from his seat, put the cobra back in his cage, and then proceeded to pull out a snake twice as long. Uh-oh.

Now standing with a snake writhing in his hands, the vendor grabbed a conveniently located “snake-noose” from the ceiling and slipped it about the beast’s neck, letting it hang and hiss while we looked on. Without the slightest acknowledgement of the snake’s obvious desire to wriggle free and kill him, the vendor picked up a pair of surgical scissors, made a quick cut along the serpent’s belly, and POP – the snake’s heart flops out of the incision, still attached and still beating. Next, he made another slit several inches from the pulsing heart, put down his scissors and replaced them with a glass mug. Holding the mug against this new hole in the very-much-alive snake, he lifted the tail and drains its blood into the container. To top off the show, he made one more slice even further down the snake, pulled out an unknown intestine, and emptied its contents (bile, perhaps?) into the mug.

Now, there’s something about Taiwanese culture that I’ve neglected to tell you: when an animal is killed, nothing (and I mean nothing) goes to waste. With that being said, it turns out that all the pageantry wasn’t just for us to watch, but was simply the prologue to what was yet to come... (click here!)

Thank God for my vaccinations.

Over the weekend, our group traveled by train to Taroko Gorge, Taiwan’s biggest tourist attraction. We walked from the train station to the front entrance of the park in a constant drizzle of rain, grabbed some food, and hiked (nearly) straight up the side of a mountain. Despite the overcast weather, the views were still phenomenal:

Returning to the park entrance, we hopped on a bus that took us to our final destination: the Catholic Hostel, which cost a whopping 10 bucks per night. After dropping off our things, we went on another hike through a series of unlit tunnels and along the edge of a vein of the gorge, and culminating with a spectacular waterfall. After a huge dinner of fried rice, river shrimp and an unknown fish (cooked with the head still attached), we turned in for night.

Not surprisingly, the walls of the hostel were paper thin and the mattresses about as soft and comfortable as linoleum, so we all got an early start on Sunday. Breakfast consisted of sausage on an indescribably delectable sausage on a stick – sorry Dad, but I think someone finally bested your bratwursts. Our first venture of the day (which redefined sweating) was a steep climb up the gorge to a viewing deck on top of a small mountain. The combination of the grueling hike and intense sunshine prompted us to take a break and lay out in the sun for awhile (or perhaps it was the reptilian snake’s blood kicking in). After seriously singeing ourselves, we hiked back down, grabbed some water and ice cream, and set off for a nearby temple. Several of us climbed to the top of the temple’s pagoda, which offered some incredible views of the valley.

After another bus ride, we hopped on a train headed back to Taipei. Unfortunately, our tickets did not guarantee seats, and we spent the two hours on the floor. Nothing like traveling on a budget…

That’s it for last week. The next seven days to be chronicled include my birthday… on which I turned 21… in a foreign country… oh dear.

Photo Credits: Mountain Lin

The Big Blonde Giant

2008-06-10T05:42:00.000-07:00

It's hard to believe that I've only been here for ten days - so much has happened since I last posted. I only hope that I can do a little justice to all the adventures my friends and I have had thus far - it's been an absolute blast.

Monday was my first day interning at Tatung, a consumer electronics company headquartered in Taipei. Craig (another Global Fellow) and I work in their IPTV division. In a nutshell, IPTV is like cable or satellite television that instead utilizes the Internet and computer networks to supply consumers with digital TV. Our division is mostly responsible for designing, manufacturing, advertising and selling IPTV set-top boxes (similar to cable or satellite boxes) to telecommunications companies like Comcast or AT&T, who then provide them to consumers with IPTV packages (again, just like cable).

I'm stationed with the mechanical engineering department, which is responsible for designing and manufacturing both the box encasements and the layout of the various components desired by each television provider. It's actually been surprising how much of what we do at work is related to what I've learned in various ME classes: 3D modeling, heat dissipation, and injection molding have all shown up in just the first seven days. I suppose this whole degree thing might actually be useful after all.

So far, I've been working mostly on the computer to create 3D models of each electrical component to be used in future boxes. It can be a little slow at times to sit and click for most the day, but I've been learning plenty from my coworkers about how engineering and manufacturing work in the real world (and not a classroom). Plus, if I manage to not mess up too much, I've also been assigned to help design the set-top boxes that will be shipped to Deutsche Telekom, the primary TV provider in Germany. It's a good feeling to know that my work might actually be of consequence, as opposed to filing papers and stuffing envelopes (even if my internship were that bad, it would still be worth the drudgery just to be here). I'll make sure to post some pictures of the project in the future.

Of course, an entry on life in Taiwan wouldn't be complete without mentioning the food. Every meal here is an adventure - even if a restaurant provides an English menu, there's a good chance that something is lost in the translation. Just last night I tried to order rice pudding, only to be presented with congealed pig's blood. Granted, I'm no culinary expert, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Many of my favorite dishes have been those from the numerous street vendors, most of whom speak little English. It requires a good deal of caveman communication to order - I point at what I want, use my hands to indicate how much or how many, and hand over the biggest bill I have rather than discern the price.

This past Thursday, our group went out to Din Tai Fung, one of Taiwan's famous dumpling restaurants. Each dumpling was composed of thin, bread-like skin stuffed with meat or seafood and steamed in bamboo baskets. Not only were all the dumplings delicious, but it was also fun to eat family style - each of us had only a small plate, and all the dishes were communal.

On to the cultural stuff... there's a lot. To begin, I am something of a freak here in Taiwan - being over 6 feet tall with blond hair and blue eyes puts me in very small minority. Not only do people take notice of my abnormal attributes, but already I've been asked more than once by locals to pose with them in a picture. Even simple actions by us "crazy" foreigners draw attention - by just picking up a baseball to play a carnival game, I managed to attract a small crowd. Admittedly, my height does have some downfalls - I have to duck whenever entering or exiting the subway, and also when climbing the stairs in our hotel. Don' worry, though - my ego hasn't suffered any since arriving here.

OK, I'll stop with the gloating. Another one of our notable excursions was to the NTU graduation prom (apparently, high schools here don't have proms, but some universities do). Being used to American parties with primarily hip-hop song selections, it was a riot to join 2,000 Taiwanese college graduates in dancing to selections straight from a WalMart PartyMix CD: Twist and Shout, Johnny B. Goode and an unknown Taiwanese pop song were among the crowd favorites. Near the end of the night, I happened to be right next to the stage when the band's singer walked over and asked, over the microphone, if I was an NTU student (keep in mind that our group was literally the only non-Asians in the room). Of course, I told her I was indeed a student at the school, which then prompted her to ask me to come on stage. A moment later, I was on stage with the singer in front of NTU's graduating class, learning how to do a variation of the bunny hop. Along with a couple other Global Fellows, I hopped around on stage for awhile before walking off in a fit of laughter.

This past Sunday, our group attended several Dragon Boat races, which are part of Taiwan's annual Dragon Boat Festival. Teams of roughly 20 members paddle huge boats up and down the river while people on the bank cheer and feast on carnival food. Despite the interment downpours of rain , it was still a great afternoon out on the river bank.

More adventures to come!

First Weekend

2008-06-01T08:10:00.000-07:00

After a whole day of travel, I've finally gotten to Taipei - woohoo!

Our flight arrived around 6 am on Saturday, so we had the entire weekend to explore the city. Once we had arrived at our hotel and dropped off our luggage, we scouted out the local area. We were quick to discover that there is a 7-eleven occupying nearly every corner of Taipei - it's not much of a stretch to say that there is always one in sight, regardless of where you are. During our trek, we stopped at a fruit market to grab a quick bite:

Around 11 am, we met up with Pei, our local USC contact, and also several students from National Taiwanese University (NTU), a college in southern Taipei. With their help, we grabbed some lunch (fried spicy chicken and beef noodle soup) before showing us how to get around on the cities buses and MRT (the subway system). During our travels, our group got our first glance at Taipei 101, which is currently the largest building in the world:

Finally, our day ended with a dinner near the NTU campus, after which we all collapsed back in our beds at the hotel (I had only slept 4 of the previous 50 hours).

On Sunday, several of us visited the Longshan Temple, where locals were praying to various gods: one for conceiving a child, another for justice, and one for doing well on tests/exams (since many Taiwanese schools have their finals in the next two weeks, that god was especially popular). We also had our fortunes read by throwing special wooden chips while kneeling in front of religious iconography. Apparently things will be going well for me in 6 months...

For dinner, we ventured out to one Taipei's famous night markets. Stores and restaurants are crammed one after another, only to be decended upon by thousands of locals and tourists alike. It would have been impossible to keep our group together, had it not been for the fact that we all stood out like sore thumbs. It's never been so convenient to be tall, blonde and white.

With some help from our incredibly kind NTU hosts, we ate just about everything we could find for dinner - fried fish, an oyster omelet, stinky tofu, beef soup, rice hotdogs, fruity milk drinks, and even squid on a stick. I'm still learning how to use chopsticks properly, but the little food that did make it into my mouth (and not onto my lap) was absolutely delicious.

As tomorrow is my first day of work, I should probably some rest. Zai jian (goodbye)!

Packing Up

2008-05-29T12:44:00.000-07:00

It's now less than an hour until I'll leave for the airport, and I've just finished packing. Both my parents presented me with several things to take along on my trip, but I'll let you figure out which parent gave me which set of items (here's a hint - my Mom is a pediatrician, and my Dad has a Cabela's credit card):

Indeed, I feel as if I've taken an entire Walgreen's Pharmacy with me. In addition to the items pictured above, I had to pack for both my internship in Taiwan (i.e., business-casual clothing) and for my travels afterwards (hiking gear/clothes). Here's what the final pile of belongings looked like:

The plastic bags were a recommendation of a quite helpful Cabela's employee - they both keep water out, and also make it easier for baggage checks at airports. Surprisingly, I was able to fit all of my things into a large hiking backpack, which will hopefully make subsequent traveling easier.

Time to go - Taiwan, here we come!

One Week Left!

2008-05-22T17:15:00.000-07:00

It's official - in one week, I will depart my beloved homeland of Minnesota. Two flights, 13 time zones and exactly 24 hours later, I touch down in Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport in Taipei, along with several other USC students. We are all participants in the "USC Global Fellows Internship Program," which provides stipends for undergraduates to live and work in Asia for eight weeks. The program aims to increase our understanding of international business, politics, and culture, which would explain why they've entrusted a considerable stipend to a culturally ignorant Midwesterner.

I've spent the last couple of days perusing through my lonely planet book on Taiwan, and every page I read makes me even more excited. I can't wait to look out across the breathtaking beaches, to look down upon Taipei from the Taipei 101 skyscraper, to relax in a natural hot spring or to indulge in the strange foods of a night market - pig's face, anyone?

Throughout my travels, I'll do my best to diligently update this blog each week with my adventures, though I can't promise I'll be able to access a computer from inside a Taiwanese jail cell (just kidding, Mom). My next post won't be until touchdown in Taipei, one week from now. Can't wait!

Photo Gallery

2008-04-15T11:00:00.001-07:00

Click on an album to view its contents in a new tab:

Spain (Summer 2009)

Thailand (August 2008)

Taiwan (Summer 2008)

France (Summer 2007)

Map

2008-04-15T11:00:00.000-07:00

Below is a map showcasing photos from the some of the places I have visited. Be patient as it may take some time to load properly.

Instructions: Use the arrows in the upper-left corner to move the map and the +/- buttons to zoom in and out. Click on a marker to see a photo taken at that location. Once a photo is selected, you may cycle through other nearby pictures by clicking "Next," or click on the photo to be taken to an album of photographs from that country/state/region.

View All the Places I've Ben in a larger map

About Me

2008-04-15T10:00:00.000-07:00

I am a recent graduate of the University of Southern California, where I majored in Mechanical Engineering. This summer I will depart for Indonesia as a Fulbright grantee. During my 10 month stay in Indonesia, I will be teaching high school English and implementing other service projects.

I use this blog to chronicle my travels throughout the world, and will continue to do so while living abroad. If you have any questions or suggestions for the blog, things to do or places to visit, feel free to leave a comment on one of the posts or send me a message using the form below:

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The views expressed on this site are entirely those of its author and do not represent the views of USC, the USC Global Fellows Internship Program, the Viterbi Summer Overseas Program, the Fulbright Program, AMINEF, the U.S. Department of State or any of its partner organizations.